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Israel is one of the few places on Earth where geography is history, whether it be the land where Jesus Christ and King David lived, or the modern battlefields which have made it the focus of more attention than any country in the world.  Here the ground seems charged, from the epic sagas chronicled in the Bible more than 2,000 years ago, to the dramatic headline-making events of the present day.   Come and join us in remembering those places, the culture shock, the people and the adventure.
Other Travels:     Israel     Texas     Sea World     Oregon 1     Oregon 2     Seattle
Dome of the Rock and Jerusalem's Old City
The Western Wall
The Land of the Living Bible:  While walking inside the walls of Jerusalem's Old City, you suddenly hear the bells tolling in the church which marks the site where Christ was crucified.  And at virtually the same time, the loudspeakers of the Moslem mosques begin broadcasting in Arabic the beautiful, often chilling call to prayer.  All this while you are gazing at the holiest site in Judaism - the surviving Western Wall of the Temple, destroyed some 2,000 years ago.  It's simply a great thrill to be a Christian, a Moslem, or a Jew in the country which is the focus of these three major religions, and it is a feeling powerful enough to be felt by the rest of the world's remaining religionists.
The Dome of the Rock - A closer look
The Garden Tomb
Practicing your faith in Israel  is an experience never to be forgotten.  The Dome of the Rock is a mosque so beautiful that one can almost imagine Mohammed on his white stallion ascending to heaven from it, and on some days the Sea of Galilee shimmers so smooth and blue that you yourself might be tempted to try a walk on the water.  It is a cliche  to call Israel the land of the Living Bible, but when you drive  your car through the lower Galilee on the road from Mount Tabor to the Sea of Galilee, you will actually wonder a the long distance Jesus walked - a feeling you might have missed out on when originally reading that particular verse in the Bible.
 
Ruins & an Arc in Jerusalem's Old City
 
Golgotha, The Place of the Skull
Water Baptism in Jordan River
Contrary to what you might have thought, the majority of Israel's citizens are not religious.  Only about 20 percent of the population are what Israelis themselves define as "observant Jews".  In Israel the definition is made very simple indeed: a male who wears a skullcap (kipa) -- a small, round, usually knitted head covering which is worn to obey the Old Testament injunction "to cover thy head in the sight of God" -- is considered to be a religious Jew.  For women, the story is different and far more complicated, which makes the job of discerning whether they are observant or not much more difficult. 
Church in Mt. of Beatitudes, site of the Sermon on the Mount
 
A church at the Mount of Olives
 
Chapel of The Ascension
But aside from the head covering, there are of course many other customs which mark the religious Israeli.  The Old Testament injunction "to observe the Sabbath" means, among other things, that from sundown Friday until sundown Saturday you can forget about phoning that friend or crucial business contact who happens to be religious, because it is forbidden for them to answer the phone.  The prohibition on working or "violating the Sabbath" in any other way means no cooking, no radio, no TV, no cleaning, bathing, or showering.  The theaters, restaurants and shopping malls are closed, and there is no public transportation if you don't have a car.  Aside from some few and far in-between exceptions, there is nothing open; Saturday is the day of rest.
  Another one of the major Sabbath injunctions is the prohibition against travel.  Wherever a religious Israeli wants to spend the weekend, he or she must get there before Friday sundown.  However, the kosher laws, in contrast to the prohibitions which affect the religious Israeli alone, will influence you directly.  If for example, your favorite food is lobster tail, then your stay in Israel will involve a considerable sacrifice, at least on the part of your salivary glands.  In brief, the kosher laws forbid pork (as do Moslem laws), seafood, and the mixing of meat and dairy products.  On the Yom Kippur holiday, not only can you take your kids on a morning walk right down the biggest highway in the city with no risk whatsoever of being run over, but thousands of people do it. 
 

Ruins of an ancient synagogue, Capernaum
 
Caesarea
Some Tips on Religion:
One of the most delightful customs in Judaism is to go to the Western Wall and place a small note in one of its many ancient crevices.  Your wish is supposed to come true.
In a synagogue, or at the Western Wall men and boys are expected to wear a kipa.
When visiting a mosque, remove your shoes before entering.  See the most fantastic Dome of the Rock. Visits are only allowed in the morning.
Don't be offended when a religious Jew in Israel will respond to the commonplace query "How are you?" with the Hebrew phrase "Baruch HaShem" which means "God be blessed."
One of the most striking aspects of life in Israel, at least to the uninitiated, is the army.  It's unfortunate but predictable that your first memorable encounter with the Israeli Army has been with a middle-aged reservist, though it could just as well have been with a beautiful girl with an Uzi submachine gun casually slung over her shoulder like a purse; or perhaps more favorably with a clean-shaven young man with paratrooper wings on his chest and officer's bars on his shoulders.  It's not just these singularly martial scene on the bus or street which take some getting used to.
 
Snowboarding in Israel
 
Parasailing in Eilat, Southern part of Israel
The most important characteristic of the Israeli Army is its compulsory draft system.  At the age of 18, almost all Israeli men and women must enter the armed forces; the men serving for three years and the women two.

  Tips on the Army:
It's against the law to photograph military bases.
Take care about photographing soldiers in the street, especially officers, who can be recognized by the various assorted insignias on their shoulders.
It's encouraged, even considered patriotic, to pick up soldiers hitchhiking, which is one of their major forms of transportation while on leave.
Don't forget, public transportation between cities is jammed with soldiers on Fridays, Sundays and on the day before and after holidays.
Swearing-in of new IDF soldiers are usually held at the Western Wall in Jerusalem.

Other Travels:     Israel     Texas     Sea World     Oregon 1     Oregon 2     Seattle

See the Acknowledgement and Links page for the references.

 
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